Fashion
6 top schools shaping the craft of stone setting
Stone setting is a craft learned by degrees, not revelations.
The first days often feel indistinguishable from the last. Your hand on the same tools, your head under the same light, yet each hour shifts something subtle: the grip, the angle, the way a bur bites into the seat.
Setting is less about designing jewelry and more about learning to read the behavior of metal around a stone, one gesture after another.
A handful of schools treat this work with the seriousness it demands. Each offers a distinct approach, but all share a belief that precision is not taught through theory: it is embodied through repetition, correction and calm observation.
Gerardi Setting School – Rome’s training ground for the world’s most exacting setters
Everything at the Gerardi Setting School is organized around the idea that clarity accelerates learning.
Pier Paolo Gerardi’s innovative trinocular method structures the entire studio: microscopes with dual viewing systems, screens that mirror every cut, and a workflow that makes even minute hand movements visible and discussable. The result is a kind of shared visual vocabulary between instructor and student, allowing mistakes to be understood in real time rather than guessed at after the fact.
The program is dense, hundreds of hours dedicated to pavé, micro pavé, flush and channel building, claw construction and complete ring mounts, yet the atmosphere remains controlled rather than rushed. Small groups allow instructors to track each student’s evolution closely, adjusting habits before they settle into muscle memory.
Many graduates continue into high-jewelry workshops across major international hubs, drawn by the school’s reputation for producing the most technically precise setters. What sets Gerardi apart is its internal coherence: every exercise, tool and demonstration reinforces the same disciplined way of seeing and shaping metal.
Boulder Metalsmithing Association – a workshop culture of shared technique
Boulder Metalsmithing Association, known as BoMA, feels like a lively metalworking lab where practical skill takes precedence over formality. Its stone-setting classes, ranging from bezel fundamentals to flush and star-setting intensives, are taught on serious equipment: PulseGravers, microscopes and robust engraving blocks that match professional studios more than community classrooms.
What defines BoMA is the peer environment. Artists and jewelers with different backgrounds work side by side, comparing approaches and troubleshooting in real time.
The school’s strength lies in this atmosphere of transparent practice: students don’t just learn techniques, they observe how other makers solve the same technical problems at slightly different tempos. For many, it becomes a place to refine existing skills rather than start from scratch, an evolving workshop that rewards curiosity and persistence.
Jewellery Design & Management International School, Singapore – structured pathways into technical fluency
At JDMIS, stone setting is not an isolated module but a sequence designed to build control gradually. Early sessions concentrate on bezel and prong foundations before moving into more demanding operations such as pedestal construction, channel arrangements and small-scale pavé.
The school’s rhythm is consistent: demonstration, supervised practice, precise feedback, repeated until the movement becomes reliable.
What stands out is the clarity of progression. Each stage prepares the ground for the next, reducing the sense of overload that often accompanies early stone-setting attempts.
Students leave with a well-defined toolkit and a realistic understanding of how these settings behave in finished jewelry. Within Southeast Asia, JDMIS has become a recognized route into bench roles where technical reliability is valued as highly as design ability.
Peter Minturn Goldsmith School – the discipline of classic mounting
Auckland’s Peter Minturn Goldsmith School leans toward the traditions of the trade: rings built from strip and wire, diamond mounts shaped from raw material, symmetry corrected with attentive filing rather than shortcuts.
Stone setting here is embedded in the broader discipline of goldsmithing, especially in the construction of claw solitaires and multi-stone arrangements typical of commercial workshops.
The teaching resembles a workshop apprenticeship more than a course catalogue. Students are expected to build mounts repeatedly until they internalize the geometry behind each design.
Those aiming for bench careers find this approach particularly valuable: it reveals the unglamorous but essential reality of making settings that function, endure and present stones cleanly and securely.
Academy of Art University – where setting meets contemporary metal arts
In San Francisco, the School of Jewelry & Metal Arts integrates stone setting into a wider exploration of fabrication and design.
Students encounter setting early, bezel, prong and flush exercises appear throughout the introductory and intermediate studios, and these skills are revisited in increasingly complex compositions as the program progresses.
The environment encourages experimentation. Because students also work across sculpture, mixed media and conceptual jewelry, setting becomes both a technical task and a design decision. It is a slower path than a dedicated setting school, but one that suits makers who see stone setting as part of a broader creative language rather than a standalone discipline.
Vanilla Ink, Glasgow – precision taught with maker-friendly clarity
Vanilla Ink operates with the directness of a studio that knows exactly what independent makers need.
Its stone-setting classes focus on flush, pavé and bezel construction, taught in groups small enough for each participant to be closely followed. The tone is practical rather than formal: tutors encourage students to analyze what the metal is doing under magnification, to adjust their pressure, and to repeat movements until the result feels deliberate rather than lucky.
The school has become a quiet anchor for many UK jewelers who need to refine their technical grounding without committing to long-term academic programs. What defines Vanilla Ink is its honesty: the teaching is straightforward, the expectations clear, and the emphasis placed squarely on skill rather than style.
The enduring value of careful hands and disciplined practice
Stone setting teaches patience before it teaches confidence. The hours spent coaxing a seat into shape, correcting a claw’s height, or easing a bur into a channel accumulate into something more significant than technique: they form a way of working, a mental posture toward detail and restraint.
Across these six institutions, the approaches vary, but the underlying philosophy remains steady.
Skill emerges through repetition guided by someone who already knows the path. Precision becomes a habit, and the bench becomes a quiet proving ground where each stone, set cleanly and securely, reflects not only craftsmanship but a deeper respect for the discipline itself.
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